Pavadairayan, 60, works as a ‘basket man’ at Kasimedu Fishing Harbour in Chennai, India. He carries fish from boats to the auction house, working from 2 a.m. to 7 a.m. daily. Navigating through dark and slippery paths, he makes the journey, each way a third of a mile, up to 50 times per shift. Each basket weighs about 35 pounds. Despite earning approximately $5 a day and limited rights, Pavadairayan finds solace in owning the rest of his day. He enjoys the simple pleasures of life, content with his earnings.
Kasimedu harbor is a bustling hub where over 30,000 people, including basket men, fishermen, and auctioneers, work together. The harbor, built to accommodate fewer than 600 boats, now hosts over 1,000, leading to overcrowded conditions. Workers share stories of their labor and love for the sea, despite the challenges they face.
Nandu Kumar, a former fisherman turned fish seller, recounts his past as a smuggler in the early 1980s. Import regulations made smuggling alcohol and cigarettes profitable until 1991’s economic reforms. Tragedy struck Kumar’s family when his daughter lost her husband to a fishing accident and later took her own life. Taking care of his grandchildren, Kumar shifted from fishing to selling fish, ensuring a steady income.
Fishing communities at Kasimedu know well the risks of the trade. Bhagat Singh, a member of the Coastal People Rights Movement, highlights the hardships and lack of support these workers endure. An average fisherman at Kasimedu earns about $200 monthly with good catches. The uncertainty pushes many to seek more reliable employment, but some return to fishing, drawn by the independence it offers.
Nizamuddin, 25, belongs to the younger generation and stands out at Kasimedu by wearing a wetsuit. Apart from fishing, he repairs nets and helps with various tasks at the harbor. Though younger people seek other careers, Nizamuddin remains dedicated, supporting his family through his work.
Kumar reflects on the enduring pull the sea has on those who work it. Despite the job’s hardships, there is a connection that brings some back to the waters. In quiet moments, Kumar feels a longing and appreciation for the unpredictable and thrilling life at sea he once knew.
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