During a visit to Maputo, Mozambique, I experienced a unique mode of transportation: a tuk-tuk motorcycle taxi. My colleague, Vincent Acovino, and I were reporting on U.S. funding adjustments for AIDS programs in Africa. What caught our attention were some fascinating concrete apartment blocks and government offices.
With some free time, we embarked on an impromptu tour of architecture by Amâncio “Pancho” Guedes. Guedes, a Portuguese-born architect, left his mark on Maputo with intriguing buildings created in the 1950s and ’60s. Our explorations included the Prédio Abreu, Santos e Rocha, and structures with engaging names like The Smiling Lion apartment block and the Lemon Squeezer church.
In a less-traveled stairwell of The Dragon House, a mural of a spiky dragon greets visitors. Crafted in black and white stone, this artwork changes the atmosphere of an otherwise dark stairwell. Guedes was prolific, designing over 500 structures in the city, from churches to bakeries.
Describing Guedes’ work is challenging due to his heavy use of materials and playful design elements. His style, known as ‘Eclectic Modernist,’ fuses sculptural and figurative aspects with practicality and local culture. Critics have praised how he combines these elements.
While Maputo evolves, the preservation of Guedes’ work remains uncertain. Experiencing the city through the lens of his architectural contributions was enlightening. Riding through Maputo’s streets in a tuk-tuk, searching for signs of Guedes’ creativity, was akin to a treasure hunt of concrete designs.
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