As summer draws to a close on Labor Day, some traditions mark its end, like the final sailings of the SS Badger on Lake Michigan. This historic steam-powered ferry, in service since 1953, offers a unique overnight experience on the Great Lakes.
Unlike typical passenger ferries, the SS Badger runs overnight schedules. Travelers can find themselves in the middle of Lake Michigan at night, surrounded by darkness and distant glimmers of other vessels. The experience might feel like a journey through time, as dawn approaches and you find yourself in Ludington, Michigan, the Badger’s winter home.
This late-night adventure from Chicago to Manitowoc, Wisconsin, can be a stirring way to conclude the summer. The SS Badger serves as the marine component of U.S. 10, connecting Seattle to Detroit. As the ferry departs Manitowoc, the quiet town of dark homes and yellow blinking lights remains behind.
On one such early morning journey, only 30 passengers boarded a vessel meant for 600. Comparisons to the eerie settings of “The Shining” aren’t entirely off. Built in 1952 as a rail car ferry, the SS Badger played a significant role in Chicago’s bustling rail history. Though rail congestion has since eased, the vessel’s transformation into a passenger ferry kept it afloat.
Renamed a National Historic Landmark in 2016, the SS Badger attracts various travelers. On clear nights, star gazers and moon enthusiasts gather to admire the sky uninterrupted by city lights. You may find an eclectic mix of truck drivers, day trippers avoiding hotel costs, and even Amish or Mennonite passengers.
For some, the overnight ferry appears nearly deserted. Its once bustling areas, such as the game arcade and cafes, often sit empty. However, a small onboard gift shop remains open. Staff like Timothy Merrick enjoy the solitude of overnight shifts.
The SS Badger was retrofitted to prevent environmental concerns, replacing previous practices of dumping coal ash with more sustainable solutions.
Conditions aboard are peaceful. Passengers rest in staterooms or bundled in sleeping bags on deck. The hum of the ship becomes a quiet backdrop. Some passengers, like one traveler who paced the ship for hours, experience a unique connection to the vessel’s rhythm.
The SS Badger’s ambiance takes on a slightly mysterious air. Stories circulate among crew about ghostly encounters, like one from 1997 involving an elderly woman. Such tales add to the ship’s allure.
As dawn breaks, the ferry prepares to dock in Ludington. Activity stirs. Crew members rouse passengers for disembarkation. Amid bustling Coast Guard ships, passengers seek shelter from the rain in Ludington’s sparse early morning offerings, eager to catch the return trip.
This overnight journey aboard the SS Badger presents a meaningful and serene conclusion to summer.
Leave a Reply