Established in 1750, Middleton Tavern in Annapolis, Md., is one of the oldest continuously operating taverns in the United States. Culinary traditions and historical significance have made it a notable culinary destination.
Annapolis Culinary Legacy
At Middleton Tavern, Arthur Gross has served as the chef for five decades. The tavern’s culinary journey began well before the United States’ inception. Sometimes, while preparing meals, Gross reflects on the tavern’s rich history and wonders how it functioned in its early days.
In 1776, Maryland’s early colonists frequently consumed seafood. Today, Gross orders similar staples such as 100 pounds of rockfish, 6 pounds of crab claw meat, and other seafood, connecting the tavern’s past and present. Tourists visiting Annapolis, a city known for its historical reenactments, often experience a glimpse of 1776.
Food as a Status Symbol
According to Dana Connett, the community programs coordinator at Historic Annapolis, food was a sign of wealth during the 18th century. Social class dictated dietary choices, with the gentry emulating European culinary traditions. At the William Paca House, fine dining elements like monogrammed silver shakers and nuanced dishes like turkey soup and roast chicken highlight this pursuit of prestige.
Joyce White, a local food historian, notes that meat was a status indicator, with beef being highly prized. Chicken, considered a delicacy, was reserved for special events. The emphasis was on maximizing resources from plantations rather than wasteful consumption.
Historical Kitchens and Servants
Historical kitchens, such as those found in the Paca House, demonstrate the laborious efforts of enslaved people, who prepared meals with small portions. Enslaved cooks had to supplement rations through hunting and foraging, ultimately contributing significantly to American cuisine. Ingredients like red pepper and okra reflect the influence of African culinary practices.
Taverns and Colonial Dining
Average folk in Annapolis frequented taverns like Middleton’s for communal dining. Although there was a variety in tavern dining experiences, taverns served as essential social hubs providing food, drink, and lodging. People consumed large amounts of alcohol, often drinking small beer or weak wine due to the lack of purified water.
American Cuisine Evolves
Today, the American palate is globally influenced. In contrast to the European-based cuisine of 1776, contemporary American cuisine incorporates diverse flavors worldwide. However, the remnants of colonial influence remain in establishments like Middleton Tavern, where the past meets present culinary adventures.
Despite the historical backdrop, Chef Arthur Gross remains focused on the current needs of the tavern, ensuring it continues to serve its patrons with a nod to its storied past.
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