For six months, I focused on understanding raw milk. In June, ProPublica published an investigation featuring Mark McAfee, who runs the nation’s largest raw-milk dairy. This story emerged from months of reporting on the Trump administration’s influence on federal health agencies. Many civil servants described an atmosphere where science became politicized. Raw milk was a prominent example.
The Raw Milk Debate
Most scientists find raw milk no more beneficial than pasteurized milk. It poses over 100 times the risk of foodborne illness. Nonetheless, policies under Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. showed a shift. Kennedy supported raw milk, hosting a White House event celebrating it.
McAfee, a longtime advocate, saw raw milk’s popularity grow. Over 10 million Americans drink it now. From 2023 to 2024, national weekly sales climbed by 65%. McAfee’s operation earns about $30 million annually. Yet, regulators link his business to multiple outbreaks and recalls.
Despite controversy, McAfee claims his customers’ experiences support raw milk’s benefits. He argues their health improvements are valid evidence, despite conventional science finding little proof.
Health Risks and Incidents
The dangers of raw milk became evident in 2006 when an E. coli outbreak linked to McAfee’s farm sickened several, including 7-year-old Chris Martin, who suffered permanent kidney damage. Despite implementing standards, outbreaks continued. Between 2023 and 2024, the farm faced one of the largest raw-dairy outbreaks in decades with over 170 salmonella cases.
McAfee disputes the farm’s connection to many outbreaks, questioning the accuracy of regulatory practices.
“We have a red-flag system here…it doesn’t go to anything but cheese. Because, you know, cheese is resistant to pathogens.” – McAfee
Cheesemaking Practices Under Scrutiny
Research indicates raw cheese is not pathogen-resistant. Aging helps reduce risk, but bacteria can survive. When McAfee described using suspect milk for cheese making, I was surprised. Further investigation showed the FDA had addressed this practice, advising destruction of contaminated products. The farm disputed the need due to aging and testing compliance, but regulatory inaction due to court delays ensued.
Consumer Education and Federal Challenges
Amid federal investigations, McAfee pushed consumer “education.” Influencers promoted his message, and federal action ceased. A Justice Department statement expressed continued consumer protection despite department silence on specific decisions. McAfee viewed this as a victory, suggesting regulatory caution isn’t always trusted.
Online feedback from his customers reflected distrust in FDA warnings.
Continued Outbreaks and Disputes
After my visit, another E. coli outbreak was linked to the farm’s cheese. Despite issuing a recall, McAfee denied responsibility, questioning pathogen testing accuracy.
Following a repeat of previous practices allegations, McAfee adjusted his stance, claiming problematic milk no longer went into cheese making. The latest outbreak ended without enforcement from the FDA, and the farm’s raw-cheese products returned to market.
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