The film “Tony” presents a depiction of Anthony Bourdain, a renowned culinary figure, during a crucial period in his life. This biopic, directed and co-written by Matt Johnson, focuses on just one summer of Bourdain’s life. It narrows in on his development from a young, inexperienced individual working in a Cape Cod restaurant in 1975.
The portrayal of Bourdain as a world-weary, romantic, and adventurous food lover, known globally from his travel shows like “Parts Unknown,” remains elusive in this film. The movie attempts to capture Bourdain before he rose to prominence, but it struggles to present a full picture of the influential figure fans know.
Dominic Sessa plays the teenage Bourdain, describing him as an angular misfit. The film characterizes him with an uneasy presence, much like a young Bob Dylan, and fails to reflect much joy or awe, even during significant moments, such as a summer fishing frenzy in Provincetown.
Bourdain’s experience in Provincetown was notably significant in shaping his life. His memoir “Kitchen Confidential” emphasizes this time, covering his love affair with the restaurant world and his introduction to drug use. However, “Tony” does not delve deeply into these aspects, missing opportunities to explore the transformative experiences that helped Bourdain pivot towards a successful culinary career.
The screenplay, co-written by Johnson with Matthew Miller, Todd Bartels, and Lou Howe, introduces elements like new fictional mentors for Bourdain. Although Antonio Banderas plays a mentor role, his portrayal does not capture the complexity of the real-life influences that Bourdain encountered in his journey.
The film introduces scenes like a dramatic kitchen fire and references to historical culinary figures, raising questions about their necessity within the narrative. Bourdain’s character does not exhibit the passionate embrace of cuisine that he was known for neither as a source of healing nor celebration.
While there are delightful moments, such as interactions with shucked oysters and cameo appearances by notable chefs like Eric Ripert, these glimpses of culinary life fail to evoke the profound impact cuisine had on Bourdain.
This approach, focusing on a particular slice of Bourdain’s life, serves as an alternative to the standard biopic. However, “Tony” struggles as an origin story for the influential chef. Ultimately, the film is rated R for its language, drug use, and sexual content, offering a brief 106-minute glimpse into Bourdain’s early life, yet missing the depth required to fully understand his journey.
“Tony,” an A24 release, debuts in theaters in Los Angeles and New York on Aug. 7 and expands on Aug. 21. It earns two stars out of four.
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